Raypak AVIA Heaters

Two interfaces, two purposes

Most installations want the remote harness, because it is what actually commands the heater. The fireman's switch is the older arrangement, intended for a time clock, and is better thought of as a safety interlock sitting underneath whatever the module decides.

The remote interface harness

Two-wire, one heating function

1. 1

   Set the heater's mode and setpoint

   With power on, push MODE to POOL or SPA. If the module regulates from its own water sensor, set the temperature to the highest setting available so the heater never becomes the limit. If it does not, set the setpoint you actually want — for example 102 F for a spa.

2. 2

   Power down

   Turn the MODE button to OFF and remove power from the heater.

3. 3

   Wire the harness

   Connect BLUE to one side of your contact, and the other side to BLACK/ORANGE for pool operation or ORANGE/BLACK for spa. Use COM and N.O on the module output so the contact rests open.

4. 4

   Cap the unused conductor

   Raypak calls for a wire nut on whichever of the two returns you are not using.

5. 5

   Plug into P8 and restore power

   The remote wires must be landed on the three-pin connector before that connector goes into the board. Then power the heater back on.

6. 6

   Activate remote operation

   Follow the heater's remote activation sequence. In REMOTE mode the display reads Remote OFF alongside Demand or No Demand.

Three-wire, pool and spa

Where both heating functions are wanted, set the temperature for each mode at the heater — for instance 80 F for pool and 102 F for spa — then wire BLUE to the common side and land both returns: ORANGE/BLACK for spa and BLACK/ORANGE for pool. Drive each from its own dry contact.

The fireman's switch

This connection is at the power junction box, not on the remote harness. Raypak has you splice into the purple wire jumper, which is tagged where the fireman's switch circuit belongs. Opening that circuit shuts off the call for heat regardless of what the remote harness is asking for.

• Do not exceed 50 ft (15 m) of total wiring — a quarter of what the remote harness allows.
• Use 18 AWG stranded copper rated for at least 221 F (105 C).
• With the switch open the display reads Clock/Fireman Sw, which tells you the call for heat has been cut rather than the heater having failed.

Practical notes from the manual

• Unused holes in the jacket and control box are intended for the fireman's switch or auxiliary control interface — use those rather than drilling.
• A bonding lug sits below the junction box. Raypak warns that failing to ground the heater electrically can affect its electronics.
• Remote wiring runs in its own conduit and must not run parallel to high voltage lines.
• Under 30 ft use 22 AWG stranded, 600 V, jacketed, twisted with a 1.5 to 2.5 in lay; over 30 ft use 20 AWG shielded and jacketed.
• The control panel and top rotate in 90 degree increments, which is worth deciding before choosing where the cable enters.

The Raymote app is a separate path

When it does not fire